Fuel Modules and Pumps
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Distinctly Delphi Fuel Pumps
- Anodized aluminum can reduce flow loss by up to 100% in severe contamination
- New carbon commutator extends fuel pump life by up to 300% over commonly used copper commutators by reducing oxidation and premature wear*
- Over-molded armature protects pump windings in corrosive environments
- Button style contacts feature additional wear material that can last for over 1 million cycles
- High capacity synthetic mesh inlet filter is able to filter out all items larger than 30 microns
- Distinctly Delphi with an electric blue fuel pump top, module top cover and strainer material
*In contaminated fuel or fuel with alcohol blends
Delphi part number | Popular Applications | EMEA car parc |
FG1455-12B1 | AUDI A1/A1 Sportback/S1 Quattro/S1 Sportback Quattro, SEAT Ibiza/Ibiza SC/Ibiza ST/Toledo, SKODA Fabia/Fabia Scout/Rapid/Rapid Spaceback/Roomster/Roomster Praktik/Roomster Scout, VW Polo | 12.4M |
FG0989-12B1 | AUDI A3/A3 Cabrio/A3 Quattro/A3 Sportback/A3 Sportback Quattro, SEAT Altea/Altea Freetrack/Altea XL/Leon/Toledo, SKODA Laura/Octavia/Octavia Scout/Yeti, VW Beetle/Bora (Jetta)/Eos/Golf/Golf Cabrio/Golf Estate/Variant/Golf Plus/Golf Van (Variant)/Jetta/Jetta Wagon/Scirocco | 9.2M |
FG1061-12B1 | ABARTH 500/500C/595/595C/695, FIAT 500/500C/500S/Panda/Panda Classic/Panda Van | 8.9M |
FG1070-12B1 | AUDI A3/A3 Quattro, SEAT Leon/Toledo, SKODA Octavia/Roomster/Roomster Praktik/Roomster Scout, VW Bora/Bora Estate/Variant/Cabrio/Golf/Golf Cabrio/Golf Estate/Variant/Golf Van (Variant)/Jetta/Jetta Wagon/New Beetle | 5.6M |
FG1498-12B1 | CITROËN C1, PEUGEOT 107/108, TOYOTA Aygo | 5.3M |
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OE heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part
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Related product resources and downloads
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Resource Highlights
In this article you will find out about how to replace a fuel pump wiring harness in a few simple steps.
Let’s take a look at how to replace an old wiring harness, or pigtail, with the new one that is supplied with your new fuel pump module. This replacement is essential, or your new fuel pump may not work properly.
We always put safety first, so be sure you are wearing safety glasses and gloves. And have a fire extinguisher close by.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Then disconnect the fuel pump harness from the tank. You’ll need to remove about a foot of the tape and black plastic conduit from the harness. Make sure you are not dealing with the fuel pressure sensor connector.
Match old wiring to new
If the old wiring is not identical to the new wiring, just refer to the diagram that comes with the new wiring. This will help you match the old to the new.
Cut the wiring
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Now you’re ready to start cutting. Cut the first pair of wires about two inches away from the electrical connectors. Then stagger the rest of your cuts by about an inch and a half and strip the wires. Crimp the vehicle wiring to the new wiring harness with the supplied connectors on all wires. Make sure not to trap any insulation between the electrical connector crimp. Next, shrink the insulation with a heat gun to secure the connections. Of course, be sure to keep this away from any fuel. When the glue begins to come out of the connector, then that means your seals are weather-tight.
Installation
To finish up, install the black plastic conduit and re-tape the wires. And you’re all set. Now you can be confident that the new fuel pump you’re about to install will have a secure connection for the rest of the life of the vehicle.
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